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Voza Restaurant brings casual sophistication that salute France, Italy, and, most compellingly, the American South. The setting is rustic, with wooden tables, fabric-covered banquettes, exposed brick and beige-painted walls, and a wood-beam-enhanced ceiling. Edison light bulbs ensconced in tulip-shaped shades add a romantic glow, as do the tabletop tea lights. Chef and co-owner Sharn Jenkins, formerly of Bayard’s and the India House Club, presides over the miniature open kitchen and schmoozes with customers, a mix of Columbia University's faculty and students, as well as regulars from across the West Side. Jenkins’ jumbo lump crab cake—moist crustacean meat with a touch of breadcrumbs and subtle seasonings—makes an excellent starter. The goat-cheese-stuffed shrimp are undistinguished, but the double cut T-bone pork chop is a knockout. Dusted with salt, pepper, thyme, and cumin, its juiciness and flavor are utterly commendable. For a relative newcomer, Voza Restaurant shows signs of being a keeper. — Michael Anstendig |
VOZA French Italian Food Restaurant 949 Columbus Avenue (106th and 107th),New York, NY 10025 Ph 212.666.8602/03